On my parent’s ranch, well over 40 years ago, I was introduced to the use of the curb bit. I was admittedly, a very young boy, but the whole nature of putting this curved steel object into a horse’s mouth, immediately sparked a lifelong interest,. With the mentoring of my parents in its use, I was left with a profound impression of control and responsibility I have never forgotten.

   Flash forward to today…..I am still curious and ever seeking what makes a bit better or worse, with so many variables it is a fascinating aspect of riding. Every day I work with a horse, whether mine or a clients, I have the nagging question in my mind, is this bit working for this situation? Now, there are many authors who have touched upon the generalities of bits and their uses and a few who have written specifically about them. I am not intending to write in depth about bits but rather to ask you as the reader, do you have a real understanding of the bit in your horse’s mouth and how it really affects your horse? Most I ask don’t, in fact, many riders haven’t the foggiest idea of the physical attributes that are involved, sometimes they don’t know if it is fitted properly, if it may even be the right type, or worse they don’t understand the many different types of bits and their applications. All too often, I find a new client with a horse that could use a better fit or a completely different bit and with a simple change, definite results happen, much to the surprise of the rider, with correct application the horse is happier and more responsive.

  In order to educate ourselves and have knowledge , we first must ask questions…so let’s ask ourselves have we spent any time really looking at our horses physical nature, does it have a narrow jaw, a tilted palate, how about just plain fat lips? I can go on but each one of these questions along with the type of riding you are involved, can all form a working relationship or dysfunctional one. As a trainer of horses, I always try the least invasive or softest bit to start, first fitting to the horses conformation and then by a generally accepted adjustment in the bridle. Now there are certain restrictions of types by rules in disciplines such as in dressage competition but at home we can explore different options to find the bit that “works”. One of the most common mistakes I find is the lack of the rider’s good use of aids and balance, which translate directly into the horse’s demeanor and performance. More often than I care to mention, an individual or trainer opts for a stronger bit to gain control that could be attained simply by a more educated hands and seat.

   Let’s take that twisted wire gag snaffle out and put in a simple French link? “Oh, I won’t be able to hold him back”, “I’ll never get the distance”, “The horse is just to forward”… I have experienced those statements and more. I am certain that many “trainers” and aficionados’ are sure that more control is obtained by force than by balance, while it does achieve nearly the control sought after it brings about more complex problems that cannot be corrected with any satisfaction. I am all for having control over no control but it really warrants good insight of the issue. First start with the horse physically, as I mentioned before, does he need dental work? Maybe a broken tooth, perhaps a bit seat is needed (rounding of the leading edge of the lower molar), Does the bit fit properly(if it is gently pulled so that it is just pressing against the cheek there should only be 3/8 to 1/2 inch of the bit showing on the opposite side). If the bit is too wide it can create a “nut cracker” effect with a snaffle, causing the horse to toss it’s head every time you apply pressure, with a bar or curb bit it acts to pry the mouth open. Obviously these situations are “not” going to result in a good ride and often will sour a horse to anything its mouth, and I wouldn’t blame them.

   So what I like to do is start with the least invasive bit, say a plain snaffle or a French link, from there I decide where to go if that doesn’t go well enough. Bear in mind that most all horses started properly will go satisfactorily in a snaffle, there are those few who don’t, but most will only require slight modifications. It is ok to experiment so long as you are aware of the proper fit and the action of each bit that you try. Remember anything with a shank increases sometimes two or three fold from your hand to their mouth so be careful. My next and most valuable advice is to ride in balance, think about carrying a bottle upright in the palm of your hand, you have to be under it all the time or it will fall, just like your horse has to carry you. If you ride too far ahead of the motion the horse is always speeding up to catch you, the opposite is also true until you are so far behind you are actually driving the horse forward.

   In my lessons I stress to ride in balance with the motion, often I see people riding with no connection to the horse over a fence and then grabbing it on the other side when the horse lands, this is never good. It will teach your horse to run away after the fence, or creek or log and sets into play the idea that a stronger bit is needed, when all it would require is balance and connection. I will venture that most horses rigged in a strong bit could with diligent, patient, calm work, ease into a softer and softer bit. It really comes down to the riders own balance/skill level. It never hurts to seek a professional that works in a light frame, Beware the trainer that has every horse in some contraption, they are probably not schooled enough themselves to help you achieve a balanced ride.

   So next time you ride a horse and they seem “too” strong, make a note to yourself to check the physical nature of the horse’s mouth and jaw, the bit “fit”, and check to see if your riding relaxed and in light connection. I can go on but you probably understand the concept…..

Clayton Jackson